Reptiles are not cuddly -
they're above all that fluffy stuff!
Although most
reptiles may become tolerant of some forms of handling, they
are not affectionate animals and do not crave human contact.
If a companion animal is what you are after, then better to
get a homeless dog from the pound.
Although
captive pythons are not inherently 'aggressive' towards their
keeper, they can be quite defensive when feeling threatened or
territorial, and many will bite. The apparent zeal with which
some individuals will bite can blur the line between
'protective behaviour' and outright attack! Many pythons
become very food-oriented and will bite just about anything
that moves - including the keeper's hand. When that happens,
it can take a great deal of time and patience (and blood!) to
dislodge the hungry python without injuring it.
Young pythons
will grow - and before any hatchling is acquired on the basis
of 'cuteness', an adult specimen of the species should be
viewed.
Show-offs don't
last
A small proportion of beginners acquire their
first reptile for the wrong reasons: wildlife should never be
maintained for the purpose of impressing friends, undertaking
a practical joke of any sort, or providing an unplanned,
unsolicited gift for anyone. Reptiles do not benefit from
being carried around like an article of jewellery at the local
shopping centre. Their use as an attention-seeking prop or as
a demonstration of bravado belies any true regard the keeper
purports to hold for the animal. Irresponsible keepers
undermine community respect for wildlife while portraying the
hobby in an exploitative light. Fortunately, the show-off type
of keeper usually moves on to other pursuits within a
relatively short time.
Reptiles can pass diseases on to their
keepers
Without adequate attention to hygiene;
reptile keepers can put themselves and others at risk of
infection from a range of protozoa and bacteria, including
Salmonella sp.
Keeping a reptile can be costly
The
expense incurred in the purchase of a python is only the
beginning of the costs that will have to be met - the most 'up
front' of these being appropriate specialised caging, which
needs to be 100% ready upon arrival of the hatchling.
Provision of food requires planning, and can be costly. The
keeper will need to either maintain a breeding colony of
rodents, or purchase frozen stock from a commercial source. In
the interest of continued family acceptance of having a snake
in the house, a separate dedicated freezer should be acquired
to store rats and mice. Licensing fees are a factor in most
states, and significant veterinary expenses may be incurred if
health issues arise.
Acclimation
Much can be gained by providing your newly arrived
hatchling with the opportunity to 'settle in' before any
handling or other potentially stressful interaction is
undertaken. If conditions are suitable, and privacy is
granted, the reptile will adapt very quickly to its new
surroundings. On the other hand, if this initial period is
interrupted with bouts of handling, or if other factors lead
to stress and uncertainty for the reptile, the settling in
period can extend indefinitely. Stress in reptiles can be
regarded by the keeper as cumulative, with each bad experience
(e.g. being handled while frightened) adding to the store of
earlier negative experiences. As exciting as a new arrival can
be, the hobbyist that respects the needs of the animal and
resists the urge to show it off in the initial period of
settling-in, will be rewarded with a much better proposition
in the long haul.
It is crucial
that the hatchling's enclosure is entirely appropriate from
the onset - eg with provision of ideal thermal conditions,
hiding facilities, water bowl, etc. Deficiencies in the
enclosure such as not being escape-proof, being too cold, too
hot, too wet, or having inadequate hiding facilities etc, can
cause a significant setback. Again, beginners who do not have
a copy of Care of Australian Reptiles in Captivity
need to get a copy before going further, in order to gain
sufficient insight as to what sort of caging and husbandry
procedures will be required.
In enclosures
with glass or screen viewing fronts, fast movements by the
keeper may frighten the new arrival, and in the case of very
nervous specimens, it may be worthwhile affixing a sheet of
paper to the outside of the enclosure to block the reptile's
view and thereby minimise disturbance. It is best to delay the
offer of food for a week or so.
Handling
Once the
new arrival is feeding well, and is not showing signs of
discontent such as reacting with alarm at movement outside the
enclosure, or devoting considerable effort to get out of the
enclosure, it is likely to be more amenable to handling. If it
is gradually introduced to handling, it is likely to become
quite tolerant of it in the fullness of time, depending of
course on the species and individual specimen, as well as the
handling ability of the keeper.
Reptiles that
have just fed will be more inclined to bite, and snakes should
be allowed to digest their meals until there is no visible
bulge in their body before being handled.
Handling should
be done in a relaxed but firm and non-hesitant manner, with a
close watch on the reaction of the reptile, with care to avoid
dropping it. If the reptile responds with excessive struggling
or by attempting to bite, it should be returned to its
enclosure.
A snake hook is
a handy piece of equipment, even when working with
non-venomous species. Small hooks for smaller snakes can be
quickly fashioned from a metal coat hanger, and commercially
available hooks are available for larger snakes. Although a
snake may be quite accustomed to handling, the sudden movement
of the initial 'grab' can surprise the snake and elicit a
reflexive feed-bite or defensive bite. The snake hook can be
used to awaken a resting snake, and partially lift its body,
before the free hand can move in and properly lift the snake
from the enclosure, whereafter the hook is put away to free
that hand, and allow greater support of the snake during
handling. Of course with very snappy snakes (e.g. living
chainsaws such as young jungle carpet pythons) the hook is
useful in moving the most pugnacious specimens in and out of
their enclosures with a minimum of stress to the snake while
avoiding any bites to the keeper. Unless there is a need to
medicate the snake, inspect its mouth or reconfirm its sex,
you should never grab it anywhere near its head or along the
first third of its body, as this will cause undue alarm.
Neither should you hold it by the tail. Instead, support the
entire snake with your palms pointing upward. If it attempts
to crawl forward, you can alternate your hands one in front of
the other, so that the snake will move along the equivalent of
a never-ending treadmill.
email: mike at m-n-m-snakes.com (substituting the standard symbol for at)